Starting an allotment is exciting — and a little daunting. New plot holders often feel pressure to do everything at once, but the most successful allotments are built gradually, with observation, planning, and realistic goals.

This guide shows you what to do first, what can wait, and how to avoid common mistakes, whether your plot is tidy or completely overgrown.

🌱 1. What to Do First (Before You Dig)

Visit, Observe, and Take Notes

On your first few visits:

• Walk the whole plot

• Note sunny vs shady areas

• Locate water points and paths

• Identify weeds and existing structures

• Take photos (great motivation later)

👉 Resist the urge to start digging immediately.

Check Rules & Expectations

Every allotment site is different. Check:

• Bonfire rules

• Structures (sheds, greenhouses)

• Water usage

• Livestock or bees

• Inspection standards

Knowing this early avoids wasted effort.

🧹 2. Clearing a New or Overgrown Plot

You do not need to clear everything at once.

Best approach for beginners

• Clear ¼–½ of the plot in year one

• Cover the rest with cardboard, membrane, or green manure

• Focus on manageable areas

Clearing methods

• Digging: fast but disruptive

• No-dig: slower but improves soil

• Covering: easiest for heavily overgrown plots

Choose the method you can maintain, not the one that looks fastest.

🗺️ 3. Planning Your Allotment Layout

Good layout saves time and effort later.

Key planning principles

• Standard beds (1–1.2m wide)

• Permanent paths

• Access to water

• Space for composting

Don’t over-design — allotments evolve.

🛠️ 4. Essential Tools (Start Small)

You don’t need everything at once.

Core essentials

• Spade or fork

• Hoe

• Trowel

• Watering cans

• Gloves

Buy quality basics and add tools as needs become clear.

🌾 5. Choosing What to Grow First

Start with reliable, forgiving crops.

Beginner-friendly crops

• Potatoes

• Onions and garlic

• Beans

• Courgettes

• Salad leaves

Avoid crops that:

• take a long time

• need specialist care

• take up lots of space early on

Early success builds confidence.

🌱 6. Understanding Your Soil

Most allotment soils start off poor or compacted.

What to do in year one

• Add compost or well-rotted manure

• Avoid walking on beds

• Mulch bare soil

• Don’t chase perfection

Soil improves with use, not neglect.

⏳ 7. Setting Realistic Expectations

Your first year is about:

• learning your site

• understanding seasons

• building habits

It’s normal to:

• lose some crops

• feel behind mid-season

• change plans often

A productive allotment is used, not perfect.

🧠 Key Principles for New Allotment Holders

• Progress beats perfection

• Small wins matter

• Healthy soil solves many problems

• You can’t learn everything in one year

Photo by david hughes on Unsplash

Composting is one of the most valuable skills for allotment gardeners. Done well, it improves soil structure, feeds crops, reduces waste, and cuts watering needs. Done badly, it can become slow, smelly, or full of pests.

This guide explains how composting works, what to add (and avoid), how to fix common problems, and how to compost successfully on a typical allotment site.

🌱 1. What Composting Actually Is (and Why It Matters)

Composting is a controlled natural process where microorganisms break down organic material into a dark, crumbly soil improver.

Good compost:

• improves soil structure

• increases water retention

• feeds soil life (not just plants)

• reduces need for bought compost and fertilisers

On allotments, composting is especially important because:

• soil is often poor or compacted

• large volumes of plant waste are produced

• importing compost is expensive and labour-intensive

🧺 2. Composting Systems on Allotments

Compost Heaps (Open or Binned)

The most common allotment method.

Typical setups:

• Wooden pallet bays (often 2–3 bays)

• Plastic compost bins

• Open heaps (less tidy, slower)

Best practice:
At least two bays:

• one “active” (being filled)

• one “resting” (finishing compost)

🍃 3. What to Compost: Greens & Browns Explained

Successful compost relies on balance, not precision.

“Greens” (Nitrogen-rich)

These speed decomposition.

• vegetable peelings

• fresh weeds (no seeds)

• grass clippings

• green plant waste

“Browns” (Carbon-rich)

These provide structure and air.

• cardboard (plain, torn up)

• paper

• straw

• dry leaves

• wood chips (small amounts)

👉 Aim for roughly 50:50 by volume, but don’t overthink it.

🚫 4. What NOT to Compost (or Use with Care)

Avoid:

• cooked food

• meat, fish, dairy

• dog or cat waste

• diseased plants (unless hot composting)

• perennial weeds with roots (bindweed, couch grass)

These attract pests or survive the composting process.

🔥 5. Hot vs Cold Composting (Allotment Reality)

Cold Composting (Most Common)

• Add material gradually

• Takes 6–18 months

• Kills fewer weed seeds

• Low effort

Hot Composting

• Large volumes added at once

• Needs turning

• Reaches high temperatures

• Faster (2–4 months)

👉 Most allotment composting is cold composting — and that’s fine.

🔄 6. How to Build a Compost Heap (Step-by-Step)

1. Start with a coarse base (twigs, straw)

2. Add alternating layers of greens and browns

3. Water lightly if dry

4. Keep heap damp, not wet

5. Cover if possible (retains heat and moisture)

Turning:

• Speeds decomposition

• Adds air

• Optional but helpful

🐀 7. Preventing Smells & Pests

To avoid smells:

• Add browns if compost is wet or slimy

• Turn heap to introduce air

To deter rats:

• Avoid food waste

• Bury fresh material

• Use wire mesh base if needed

A healthy heap smells earthy, not rotten.

🌾 8. When Is Compost Ready to Use?

Finished compost is:

• dark brown to black

• crumbly

• smells like soil

• no recognisable food waste

Uses on the allotment:

• mulch beds

• improve soil before planting

• potting mixes (screened)

Spring is the most exciting — and busiest — time on the allotment. What you do in early spring sets the tone for the entire growing season. Good spring preparation isn’t about rushing to plant everything; it’s about soil readiness, timing, and smart early decisions that make the rest of the year easier.

This guide walks you through what to do first, what to delay, and how to prepare efficiently, whether it’s your first year or your tenth.

🌱 1. Why Spring Preparation Matters

Spring prep helps you:

• warm and prepare soil for planting

• reduce weeds before they establish

• avoid compacting wet soil

• get crops off to a strong start

Poor spring prep often leads to:

• stunted plants

• wasted seeds

• constant firefighting later in summer

👀 2. First Job: Inspect the Plot

Before doing anything physical:

• Walk the plot and check winter damage

• Look for waterlogged areas

• Inspect paths, beds, and structures

• Note what survived winter

👉 This prevents working soil that isn’t ready.

🌾 3. Preparing Soil for Spring Planting

Don’t Work Wet Soil

If soil sticks to boots or tools, leave it alone. Working wet soil causes long-term compaction.

Light Soil Preparation (Best Practice)

Instead of heavy digging:

• Gently fork compacted areas if needed

• Rake beds level

• Remove large weeds while small

If beds were mulched in autumn:

• Pull mulch aside to allow soil to warm

• Return it once crops are established

Feeding the Soil

Spring feeding should be gentle.

Best options:

• sieved compost

• well-rotted manure (light layer)

• homemade compost

Avoid heavy feeding too early — seedlings don’t need it yet.

🌱 4. Sowing & Planting: Timing Is Everything

Early Spring (Feb–Mar, weather dependent)

• Broad beans

• Onions and shallots

• Peas

• Early salads

Mid-Spring (Mar–Apr)

• Potatoes

• Carrots (with protection)

• Beetroot

• Spinach

Late Spring (Apr–May)

• Beans

• Courgettes

• Sweetcorn

• Squash

👉 It’s better to sow a little later into warm soil than rush into cold ground.

🌬️ 5. Protection From Spring Weather

Spring brings:

• late frosts

• strong winds

• heavy rain

Use:

• fleece for cold snaps

• cloches for early crops

• windbreaks for exposed plots

Remove protection on mild days to avoid overheating.

🐛 6. Dealing With Early Pests & Weeds

Weeds

• Remove weeds while small

• Hoe on dry days

• Mulch once soil warms

Pests

• Slugs target young seedlings

• Birds pull up new plants

Early prevention:

• barriers

• netting

• careful watering

🛠️ 7. Tools, Water & Infrastructure

Spring is the time to:

• clean and sharpen tools

• check communal water access

• repair beds and supports

• set up compost bays

Doing this early saves time later.

📋 8. Planning & Pacing Yourself

Avoid the spring burnout trap:

• Don’t plant everything at once

• Leave space for succession sowing

• Expect weather delays

A half-planted plot in good condition beats a fully planted plot that’s struggling.

Pests and diseases affect every allotment at some point. The aim isn’t total elimination, but understanding the problem, choosing the least harmful effective solution, and preventing repeat issues.

This guide explains what each control method actually is, how it works, how to use it properly, and when it makes sense to move up to stronger interventions.

🐌 SLUGS & SNAILS

The Problem

Slugs and snails feed mostly at night and are most damaging to:

• seedlings

• young leafy crops (lettuce, brassicas)

• courgettes and beans

Damage usually appears as irregular holes, missing seedlings, or slime trails.

Organic Solutions

Beer Traps

Beer traps exploit the fact that slugs are attracted to yeast.

How to make one:

1. Sink a shallow container (e.g. yogurt pot) into the soil so the rim is level with the surface

2. Fill halfway with beer (cheap beer works fine)

3. Leave overnight and empty regularly

Pros:

• Cheap and easy

• Effective short-term reduction

Cons:

• Attracts slugs from nearby areas

• Needs frequent emptying

• Not a complete solution

➡ Best used for monitoring or short-term control, not as a standalone strategy.

Barriers (Copper, Grit, Wool Pellets)

These create surfaces slugs dislike crossing.

• Copper tape gives slugs a mild electric shock reaction

• Sharp grit or crushed eggshells irritate their bodies

• Wool pellets swell when wet, creating a physical barrier

Best for:

• Containers

• Raised beds

• High-value crops

Hand Removal

Going out after dark with a torch and removing slugs manually.

Why it works:
You interrupt breeding cycles early in the season.

Tip:
Drop slugs into salty water or relocate far from the plot (if permitted).

Encouraging Predators

Natural slug predators include:

• frogs and toads

• ground beetles

• birds

How to encourage them:

• Leave log piles

• Avoid slug pellets

• Provide water sources

Non-Organic Solutions

Ferric Phosphate Pellets

These pellets cause slugs to stop feeding and die underground.

Why they’re preferred:

• Approved for organic use

• Safer for pets and wildlife

• No slime trails

How to use properly:

• Scatter sparingly

• Reapply after heavy rain

⚠️ Avoid metaldehyde pellets — now restricted or banned in many areas.

🐜 APHIDS (GREENFLY & BLACKFLY)

The Problem

Aphids suck sap from soft growth, weakening plants and spreading disease. They often appear suddenly in warm weather.

Organic Solutions

Jet of Water

A strong spray physically knocks aphids off plants.

Why it works:
Aphids struggle to climb back and are vulnerable once dislodged.

Use when:

• Infestation is light to moderate

• Plants are sturdy enough to handle water pressure

Neem Oil / Fatty Acid Sprays

These sprays:

• coat aphids

• disrupt feeding

• dehydrate soft-bodied insects

How to use:

• Spray in the evening

• Cover undersides of leaves

• Repeat weekly if needed

⚠️ Avoid spraying during flowering to protect pollinators.

Encouraging Beneficial Insects

Ladybirds, lacewings, and hoverfly larvae eat aphids.

How to attract them:

• Grow flowers like calendula, borage, alyssum

• Avoid broad-spectrum sprays

Non-Organic Solutions

Systemic Insecticides

These are absorbed by the plant and kill insects that feed on it.

Why they’re effective:
They work even when insects are hidden.

Major downsides:

• Kill pollinators

• Persist in the environment

• Often unnecessary on allotments

➡ Use only for severe, persistent infestations and check site rules.

🐦 BIRDS (PIGEONS & SMALL BIRDS)

The Problem

Birds strip leaves from brassicas, eat fruits and pull out seedlings.

Physical Protection (Best Practice)

Netting

Netting is the most reliable solution when used correctly.

Correct installation:

• Use fine mesh (not string netting)

• Secure edges tightly to the ground

• Support netting above plants with hoops or frames

⚠️ Loose netting can trap wildlife — always keep it taut.

Fleece

Lightweight fabric that:

• protects from birds

• adds warmth

• allows light and water through

Best for:

• seedlings

• early spring crops

🥕 CARROT FLY

The Problem

Adult flies lay eggs near carrots; larvae tunnel into roots.

Organic Solutions

Mesh Barriers

Carrot fly stays close to the ground.

Solution:

• Use fine mesh or fleece barriers at least 60cm high

• Ensure no gaps

Growing in Containers

Carrot fly struggles to reach raised containers.

Why it works:
Physical separation breaks the life cycle.

🍅 BLIGHT (POTATOES & TOMATOES)

The Problem

Blight is a fungal disease that spreads rapidly in warm, damp conditions.

Prevention (Only Real Control)

Good Airflow

• Space plants well

• Remove lower leaves

• Avoid overcrowding

Watering at Soil Level

Wet leaves encourage spores.

Best practice:

• Water in the morning

• Water soil, not foliage

Non-Organic Options

Fungicides can slow spread but cannot cure blight once established.

➡ Immediate removal of infected plants is usually more effective.

🍂 POWDERY MILDEW

The Problem

Appears as white powdery coating on leaves, often in dry conditions.

Organic Solutions

Improving Growing Conditions

Powdery mildew thrives on stressed plants.

Fix by:

• Regular watering

• Better spacing

• Improving soil fertility

Milk or Bicarbonate Sprays

These change leaf surface pH, making it hostile to mildew.

Use sparingly:
They manage symptoms rather than cure causes.

🛡️ PROTECTION STRATEGY: WHAT WORKS BEST?

Most effective overall:

1. Healthy soil

2. Correct spacing

3. Physical barriers

4. Observation and early action

Sprays — organic or not — should always be last, not first.

✅ KEY PRINCIPLES TO REMEMBER

• Most problems are seasonal and temporary

• Healthy plants resist pests better

• Physical protection beats chemical control

• Do the minimum needed, not the maximum possible

Get in touch if you have any other hints or tips from your allotment experiences

Autumn is one of the most important seasons on the allotment. What you do now determines how easy spring will be, how healthy your soil becomes, and how productive next year’s crops will be. Good winter preparation doesn’t mean stripping the plot bare — it means protecting soil, tidying thoughtfully, and planning ahead.

This guide explains what to clear, what to leave, how to protect beds, and how to prepare without overworking the plot.

🍂 1. Why Autumn Preparation Matters

Autumn prep helps you:

• protect soil from winter rain and compaction

• reduce weeds and pests next year

• improve soil structure naturally

• spread workload away from busy spring

Skipping autumn prep often leads to:

• waterlogged soil

• harder spring digging

• early weed explosions

🧹 2. Clearing Summer Crops (What to Remove & What to Leave)

Remove:

• spent annual crops (beans, courgettes, salads)

• diseased plant material (do not compost)

• damaged or rotting fruit

Leave (or compost later):

• healthy crop residues (chopped small)

• roots in the soil (they improve structure)

• overwintering crops (leeks, brassicas, kale)

👉 Avoid stripping beds completely bare unless necessary.

🌱 3. Composting & Recycling Plant Waste

Autumn produces a lot of organic material.

Best practice:

• Chop material before composting

• Compost healthy plant waste

• Keep diseased material out of compost heaps

Autumn is ideal for:

• building new compost heaps

• turning existing heaps

• stockpiling leaves for leaf mould

🌾 4. Improving & Protecting Soil Over Winter

Add Organic Matter

Autumn is the best time to add:

• compost

• well-rotted manure

• leaf mould

These break down slowly over winter, improving soil by spring.

Cover Bare Soil (Critical Step)

Bare soil suffers from:

• nutrient loss

• compaction

• weed growth

Cover options:

• compost or manure mulch

• cardboard + mulch (no-dig)

• green manures

• overwintering crops

🌿 5. Green Manures (Optional but Powerful)

Green manures:

• protect soil from erosion

• improve structure

• suppress weeds

Good autumn options:

• field beans

• grazing rye

• winter tares

They can be cut down or incorporated in spring.

🛠️ 6. Tidying Structures, Tools & Paths

Tools

• Clean and dry tools

• Oil metal parts

• Repair handles

Structures

• Check sheds and greenhouses

• Secure loose panels

• Remove shading

Paths

• Add woodchip or bark

• Improve drainage

• Reduce winter mud

❄️ 7. Preparing Crops for Winter Weather

Protect:

• garlic and overwintering onions

• brassicas in exposed sites

Methods:

• fleece during cold snaps

• windbreaks

• mulching roots

Avoid over-protecting — plants need airflow.

🐦 8. Wildlife-Friendly Winter Prep

Autumn is a great time to:

• leave some seed heads

• create log piles

• avoid over-tidying

This encourages:

• birds

• beneficial insects

• natural pest control next season

📋 9. Planning for Next Year (Don’t Skip This)

Autumn is ideal for:

• reviewing what worked

• noting pest or disease issues

• planning crop rotation

• ordering seeds early

🧠 Key Autumn Principles

• Protect soil first

• Don’t rush heavy digging

• Organic matter now = easier spring

• Tidy thoughtfully, not obsessively

Crop rotation is one of the most powerful — and misunderstood — tools in allotment gardening. Done simply, it reduces pests and diseases, improves soil health, and boosts yields with very little extra effort.

This guide explains what crop rotation is, why it matters, how to start even on a new or messy plot, and how to keep it practical rather than perfect.

🌱 1. What Is Crop Rotation (Plain English)

Crop rotation means not growing the same family of vegetables in the same place year after year.

Instead, crops are moved around beds so that:

• pests don’t build up

• diseases don’t persist in the soil

• nutrients are used and replaced more evenly

👉 You rotate plant families, not individual crops.

🌾 2. Why Crop Rotation Matters on an Allotment

Rotation helps to:

• reduce soil-borne diseases (e.g. clubroot, blight)

• limit pest build-up (e.g. cabbage root fly)

• balance nutrient use

• improve soil structure over time

Without rotation, problems tend to increase gradually each year rather than appearing suddenly.

🧩 3. The Main Crop Families

You don’t need to memorise dozens of plants — just the main groups:

1️⃣ Brassicas

Cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, sprouts

2️⃣ Legumes

Peas, beans (including broad, runner, French)

3️⃣ Roots & Alliums

Carrots, parsnips, beetroot, onions, garlic, leeks

4️⃣ Fruiting Crops

Potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, aubergines, courgettes, squash

(Some people split potatoes out separately — that’s optional.)

🛠️ 4. The Easiest Rotation System 

The Simple 4-Bed Rotation

This is the most practical system for allotments.

Bed 1 - Year 1: Potatoes; Year 2: Legumes; Year 3: Roots & Alliums; Year 4: Brassicas 

Bed 2 - Year 1: Brassicas; Year 2: Potatoes; Year 3: Legumes; Year 4: Roots and Alliums

Bed 3 - Year 1: Roots and Alliums; Year 2: Brassicass; Year 3: Potatoes; Year 4: Legumes  

Bed 3 - Year 1: Legumes; Year 2: Roots and Alliums; Year 3: Brassicas; Year 4: Potatoes 

After year 4, the cycle repeats.

👉 If you have fewer beds, rotate across areas rather than perfect rectangles.

🌱 5. How to Start Crop Rotation on a New Allotment

Most beginners worry they’ve “missed the start”. You haven’t.

If your plot is new or chaotic:

• Start rotation from this year onward

• Accept that year one may be imperfect

• Focus on future improvement, not fixing the past

Practical steps:

1. Sketch your beds on paper

2. Label what you grow this year

3. Move crops to a different bed next year

4. Keep simple notes (phone photo is enough)

🔄 6. What About Mixed Beds & Small Plots?

Crop rotation still works — just more loosely.

Mixed beds

• Avoid planting the same family in the same spot next year

• Rotate sections rather than whole beds

Small or half plots

• Use a 3-bed rotation

• Or rotate between “heavy feeders” and “light feeders”

Perfection is not required for benefits.

🌾 7. Rotation, Feeding & Soil Health

Crop rotation works best when combined with:

• regular compost additions

• mulching

• good watering practices

Typical pattern:

• Potatoes & fruiting crops benefit from compost/manure

• Legumes add nitrogen

• Roots prefer less rich soil

• Brassicas follow well-fed beds

⚠️ 8. Common Crop Rotation Mistakes

• Rotating individual crops instead of families

• Trying to follow a plan too rigidly

• Giving up because it’s not “perfect”

• Forgetting where things were grown last year

👉 A simple plan followed consistently beats a perfect plan abandoned.

Water is one of the most common causes of stress on allotments — for plants and people. Where water is shared via communal taps or reservoirs, success depends on efficient use, good timing, and cooperation, not volume.

This guide explains how much to water, when to water, what methods work best on communal systems, and how to reduce demand without reducing yields.

💧 1. Understanding Communal Water Systems

Most allotments provide:

• Shared standpipes/taps (often seasonal)

• Reservoirs or storage tanks filled periodically

• Usage rules to ensure fairness

Common restrictions you may encounter

• No hoses (watering cans only)

• Hoses allowed only at certain times

• No unattended irrigation

• Summer restrictions during drought

👉 Always check site rules first — misuse can lead to water being turned off for everyone.

🌱 2. How Much Water Do Plants Actually Need?

Plants don’t need frequent watering — they need deep, infrequent watering that reaches the roots.

General rule

• Water thoroughly

• Then wait until the top few centimetres of soil dry out

• Avoid light, daily sprinkling

Why this matters

• Encourages deeper roots

• Makes plants more drought-resistant

• Reduces disease

⏰ 3. When to Water (Timing Matters)

Best time: Early morning

• Less evaporation

• Plants hydrate before heat

• Leaves dry quickly (reduces disease)

Second best: Evening

• Still effective

• Avoid wet foliage overnight if possible

Worst time: Midday

• Water evaporates quickly

• Can stress plants

• Wastes shared resources

🚿 4. Watering Methods (Ranked for Communal Allotments)

1️⃣ Watering Cans (Most Common & Fair)

Best choice on shared sites.

How to use efficiently:

• Water at the base of plants

• Slow, steady pour

• Two cans per bed is often better than one rushed pass

Tip:
Rose off for soil soaking, rose on for gentle seedlings.

2️⃣ Hosepipes (If Permitted)

Often restricted due to waste.

If allowed:

• Use a trigger nozzle

• Never leave unattended

• Avoid spraying paths or foliage

⚠️ Hoses are fast — but easy to misuse.

3️⃣ Drip Irrigation (Usually Not Allowed on Communal Taps)

Gravity-fed drip systems can work if filled manually and attended.

Good use case:

• Fill from a water butt

• Use short runs

• Supervise use

Not suitable if:

• Connected directly to communal taps

• Left running unattended

🌾 5. Reduce Water Use (The Real Secret)

The most successful allotment growers don’t water more — they lose less.

Mulching (Biggest Water Saver)

Mulch reduces evaporation by up to 70%.

Good mulches:

• Compost

• Well-rotted manure

• Grass clippings (thin layers)

• Leaf mould

How to apply:

• Water soil first

• Apply 5–10 cm layer

• Keep away from stems

Improve Soil Structure

Healthy soil holds water better.

Improve water retention by:

• Adding organic matter yearly

• Avoiding compacted paths

• Using no-dig or minimal digging

Shade & Wind Protection

• Temporary shade in heatwaves

• Windbreaks reduce moisture loss

🪴 6. Watering Different Types of Crops

Seedlings & Transplants

• Need consistent moisture

• Water gently and frequently at first

• Reduce frequency once established

Established Vegetables

• Water deeply once or twice a week

• Focus on roots, not leaves

Fruit Crops

• Require steady watering during flowering and fruiting

• Irregular watering causes:
  split tomatoes
  bitter courgettes
  poor fruit set

Containers & Raised Beds

• Dry out faster than ground beds

• May need daily watering in hot weather

• Mulch is essential

🌦️ 7. Drought Periods & Water Restrictions

During droughts:

• Prioritise new plantings and fruiting crops

• Accept some leaf loss on hardy plants

• Stop watering non-productive areas

Focus water where it matters most.

🤝 8. Being a Good Communal Water User

Good water etiquette keeps allotments harmonious.

Always:

• Queue fairly

• Fill cans quickly

• Turn taps off fully

• Report leaks immediately

Never:

• Leave water running

• Block access

• Water paths or weeds

🧠 9. Simple Watering Decision Guide

Ask yourself:

1. Is the soil dry below the surface?

2. Is the plant wilting in the morning (real stress)?

3. Can mulch solve this instead?

4. Am I watering leaves instead of roots?

👉 If unsure — wait and check again later.

✅ Key Takeaways

• Deep, infrequent watering beats daily sprinkling

• Morning watering is best

• Mulch is more powerful than water

• Respect shared resources

• Efficient watering grows stronger plants

Soil is the foundation of everything you grow on an allotment. Healthy soil holds water, feeds plants, resists pests and disease, and improves year after year. Poor soil leads to weak crops, constant watering, and disappointing harvests.

This guide explains how to understand your soil, improve it naturally, manage it through the seasons, and avoid common mistakes — whether you dig or garden no-dig.

🌱 1. Why Soil Health Matters on an Allotment

Good soil:

• supports strong root systems

• holds moisture during dry periods

• drains excess water in winter

• feeds soil life, which feeds plants

Most allotment soils start off:

• compacted

• low in organic matter

• poorly structured

The good news: soil can always be improved, often faster than people expect.

🧪 2. Understanding Your Allotment Soil

Common Soil Types

Clay soil

• Heavy, sticky when wet, cracks when dry

• Holds nutrients well but drains slowly

Sandy soil

• Light, free-draining, warms quickly

• Loses water and nutrients easily

Loam

• Balanced, crumbly, ideal

• Most allotments aim to move towards this

👉 Most plots are a mix, not a single type.

Simple Soil Tests (No Equipment Needed)

Texture test

• Rub moist soil between fingers

• Sticky = clay

• Gritty = sandy

• Crumbly = loam

Drainage test

• Dig a hole and fill with water

• If it drains within a few hours: good

• If it sits overnight: drainage needs work

🌾 3. Improving Soil Naturally (The Core Principle)

The single most important rule of soil management:

Add organic matter regularly.

Organic matter:

• feeds soil organisms

• improves structure

• increases water retention

• reduces compaction

Best Soil Improvers for Allotments

Compost

• Improves structure and fertility

• Ideal as mulch or top dressing

Well-rotted manure

• Adds nutrients and organic matter

• Best applied in autumn or winter

Leaf mould

• Excellent for moisture retention

• Low nutrient, high structure benefit

Green manures

• Plants grown then dug in or cut

• Improve structure and protect bare soil

4. Digging vs No-Dig on an Allotment

Traditional Digging

Pros

• Fast initial improvement on neglected plots

• Buries weeds and surface debris

Cons

• Disturbs soil structure

• Brings weed seeds to surface

• Physically demanding

No-Dig Gardening

Pros

• Improves soil life and structure

• Fewer weeds long-term

• Better moisture retention

Cons

• Requires patience initially

• Needs regular organic matter

👉 Many allotment holders use a hybrid approach: dig once, then maintain no-dig.

🍂 5. Managing Soil Through the Seasons

Spring

• Avoid working wet soil

• Add compost before planting

• Light forking only if compacted

Summer

• Mulch heavily to conserve moisture

• Avoid leaving soil bare

Autumn

• Add manure or compost

• Sow green manures

• Remove spent crops

Winter

• Protect soil from rain and compaction

• Cover beds with mulch or green manure

💧 6. Soil, Water & Compaction

Healthy soil:

• absorbs water easily

• drains excess moisture

• resists cracking

To reduce compaction:

• never walk on beds

• use defined paths

• avoid digging when soil is wet

Compacted soil causes:

• poor root growth

• waterlogging

• weak plants

🌱 7. Feeding Soil, Not Just Plants

Rather than relying on feeds:

• build fertility into the soil

• let soil organisms release nutrients slowly

Liquid feeds are useful for:

• containers

• stressed plants

• fruiting crops

But they cannot replace good soil structure.

Winter is a quieter time on the allotment, but it’s not a time to abandon the plot. Smart winter preparation protects soil structure, prevents damage, and makes spring far easier. The aim isn’t constant work — it’s protection, observation, and light maintenance.

This guide explains what to do before hard frosts arrive, how to look after soil and overwintering crops, and what jobs are best saved for winter.

❄️ 1. Why Winter Preparation Matters

Good winter prep helps you:

• prevent soil compaction and erosion

• protect overwintering crops from damage

• reduce spring workloads

• keep tools and structures safe

Poor winter prep often leads to:

• waterlogged beds

• broken structures

• lost crops

• a rushed, difficult spring start

🌾 2. Protecting Soil Over Winter (Top Priority)

Avoid Working Wet Soil

Winter soil is easily damaged.

• Don’t dig or fork wet ground

• Avoid walking on beds

• Stick to paths only

Compaction now can affect crops for years, not months.

Keep Soil Covered

Bare soil suffers in winter.

Best winter covers:

• compost or manure mulch

• leaf mould

• green manures

• cardboard topped with organic matter

Covering soil:

• reduces nutrient loss

• prevents erosion

• feeds soil life slowly

🌱 3. Overwintering Crops: Care & Protection

Common overwintering crops include:

• leeks

• kale

• Brussels sprouts

• winter cabbages

• garlic and overwintering onions

Frost & Wind Protection

Most winter crops are hardy, but protection helps in extremes.

Use:

• fleece during severe cold

• windbreaks on exposed plots

• mulch around roots

⚠️ Avoid permanent coverings — airflow is still important.

🧹 4. Tidying Without Overdoing It

Winter tidying should be selective.

Remove:

• diseased plant material

• rotting crops

• unstable supports

Leave:

• healthy roots in soil

• some plant debris for wildlife

• seed heads for birds

A slightly untidy plot is often a healthier plot.

🛠️ 5. Tools, Structures & Infrastructure

Tool Care (Ideal Winter Job)

• Clean soil from tools

• Dry thoroughly

• Oil metal parts

• Sharpen blades

Well-maintained tools last longer and work better.

Structures

• Secure sheds and greenhouses

• Remove shading from glass

• Check fixings after storms

Winter winds cause more damage than frost.

🌧️ 6. Managing Water & Drainage

Winter brings excess water rather than drought.

• Clear blocked drains and ditches

• Improve muddy paths with woodchip

• Check water butts are secure or partially emptied

Standing water damages roots and soil structure.

🐦 7. Supporting Wildlife in Winter

Winter is when wildlife needs the allotment most.

Simple actions:

• leave log or leaf piles

• avoid disturbing soil unnecessarily

• provide water if possible

This supports natural predators for next season.

📝 8. Planning & Light Winter Jobs

Winter is perfect for:

• reviewing the past season

• planning crop rotation

• ordering seeds early

• building beds or compost bays

These jobs are productive without stressing the soil.

🧠 Key Winter Principles

• Protect soil first

• Less disturbance is better

• Winter is for maintenance, not heavy digging

• Small jobs now prevent big jobs later

Summer is when the allotment rewards your earlier work — but it’s also when problems appear fastest. Heat, drought, rapid growth, pests, and gluts can overwhelm even experienced growers. Good summer preparation is about maintaining momentum, protecting plants, and working smarter — not harder.

This guide explains how to prepare for summer conditions, manage crops efficiently, and keep your plot productive without burnout.

☀️ 1. Why Summer Preparation Matters

Summer prep helps you:

• protect crops from heat and drought

• maintain soil moisture

• manage rapid plant growth

• reduce losses to pests and stress

• keep harvesting consistent

Without preparation, summer often leads to:

• constant emergency watering

• bolting crops

• pest explosions

• exhaustion and frustration

💧 2. Watering Strategy for Summer

Water Less Often, But Better

Summer watering should be deep and targeted.

Best practice:

• water early morning or evening

• water soil, not leaves

• soak thoroughly, then allow soil to dry slightly

Avoid:

• frequent light watering

• midday watering

• watering paths or bare soil

Prioritise Water Use

When water is limited, prioritise:

1. seedlings and new plantings

2. fruiting crops (tomatoes, courgettes, beans)

3. containers and raised beds

Hardy, established crops can tolerate some stress.

🌾 3. Mulching: The Summer Essential

Mulching is the single most effective summer job.

Benefits:

• reduces water loss

• cools soil

• suppresses weeds

• improves soil health

Best summer mulches:

• compost

• grass clippings (thin layers)

• straw

• leaf mould

Apply mulch after watering for maximum benefit.

🌱 4. Managing Rapid Growth

Summer plants grow fast — unchecked growth causes problems.

Regular Jobs

• tie in climbing crops

• pinch out tomatoes

• thin crowded plants

• remove damaged growth

Doing small jobs weekly prevents major fixes later.

🥕 5. Harvesting & Succession Sowing

Harvest Little and Often

Regular harvesting:

• encourages more production

• prevents crops becoming woody or bitter

• reduces pest attraction

Succession Sowing

To avoid gluts:

• sow salads every 2–3 weeks

• replace harvested crops quickly

• use gaps for fast growers (radish, lettuce)

Summer is about continuous cycles, not one big harvest.

🐛 6. Pest & Disease Watch (High-Risk Period)

Summer warmth accelerates pest lifecycles.

Watch for:

• aphids

• slugs during wet spells

• caterpillars

• powdery mildew

Best prevention:

• healthy soil

• good airflow

• early intervention

• physical protection before damage spreads

🌬️ 7. Heat, Sun & Wind Protection

During heatwaves:

• shade young plants temporarily

• use fleece or mesh as sun protection

• water soil deeply, not foliage

Wind:

• dries soil quickly

• damages tall crops

Windbreaks and staking are summer essentials.

🛠️ 8. Infrastructure & Plot Management

Summer is the time to:

• check watering access regularly

• repair supports under load

• keep paths clear

• manage compost inputs (greens-heavy season)

Small checks now prevent crop losses later.

🧠 9. Pacing Yourself Through Summer

Avoid burnout by:

• accepting imperfect beds

• prioritising key crops

• harvesting before tidying

• skipping non-essential jobs during heat

A productive allotment doesn’t need to look perfect.

🧠 Key Summer Principles

• Mulch beats watering

• Harvesting is maintenance

• Prevention saves effort

• Consistency matters more than intensity

Onions and garlic are essential allotment crops. They take up relatively little space, store well, and are used in almost every kitchen. They’re also excellent beginner crops — as long as they’re grown slowly, with the right spacing and good soil.

This guide covers how to grow onions and garlic from seed, sets, and plug plants, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, container vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Ways to Grow Onions & Garlic

🌰 From Seed (Onions only)

Growing onions from seed gives the best flavour and storage potential.

Pros

• Cheapest option

• Huge variety choice

• Excellent long-term storage

Cons

• Slower to establish

• Needs early sowing and patience

🧅 From Sets (Onions)

Small immature onions grown on for planting.

Pros

• Fast and reliable

• Ideal for beginners

• Less weeding early on

Cons

• Slightly more expensive

• Higher risk of bolting

🌱 Plug Plants (Onions & Garlic)

Young plants supplied ready to grow.

Pros

• Great for late planting

• Strong, uniform plants

Cons

• Higher cost

• Limited variety choice

🧄 Garlic Cloves

Garlic is grown by planting individual cloves.

Always use:

• certified garlic bulbs
  Avoid supermarket garlic if possible — it may carry disease or be treated.

🗓️ 2. When to Plant Onions & Garlic

Onions

• From seed (indoors): Jan–Feb

• From seed (outdoors): Mar–Apr

• From sets: Mar–Apr

• Overwintering sets: Oct–Nov

Garlic

• Autumn planting: Oct–Nov (best yields)

• Spring planting: Feb–Mar

Autumn-planted garlic usually produces larger bulbs.

🌾 3. How to Grow Onions & Garlic in the Ground

Soil Requirements

• Free-draining soil

• Open, sunny position

• Not freshly manured

Too much nitrogen = leafy growth and poor bulbs.

Spacing

Onions

• 10–15cm between plants

• 30cm between rows

Garlic

• 10–15cm between cloves

• 30cm between rows

Crowding leads to small bulbs.

Planting Depth

• Onion sets: tip just showing above soil

• Garlic: plant cloves 5–7cm deep, point up

🪴 4. Growing Onions & Garlic in Containers

Ideal for:

• small plots

• patios

• poor or heavy soil

Container Guidelines

• Minimum depth: 20–25cm

• Free-draining compost

• Good drainage holes

Spacing in pots:

• 1 onion per 10cm

• 1 garlic clove per 10–12cm

Water containers more regularly than ground beds.

💧 5. Watering Onions & Garlic

Watering Rules

• Water during dry spells, especially early growth

• Reduce watering once bulbs start swelling

• Stop watering completely as foliage yellows

Too much water late on causes:

• soft bulbs

• poor storage

🌿 6. Feeding Onions & Garlic

Onions and garlic are light to moderate feeders.

Best Practice

• Add compost before planting

• Avoid high-nitrogen feeds

• Optional light feed in spring if growth is weak

Strong soil structure matters more than fertiliser.

🐛 7. Common Pests & Diseases

Onion Fly

Symptoms

• Wilting plants

• Maggots in bulbs

Prevention

• Fine mesh netting

• Crop rotation

• Avoid thinning seedlings in open air

White Rot (Serious Disease)

Symptoms

• Yellowing leaves

• White fungal growth on bulbs

Prevention only

• Strict crop rotation (8+ years)

• Use clean seed/sets

• Remove infected plants immediately

Leek Rust (Affects onions too)

• Orange pustules on leaves

• More common in damp summers

Improve airflow and avoid overcrowding.

🧺 8. Harvesting & Storage

When to Harvest

• When foliage turns yellow and falls over naturally

• Do not force tops down

Drying (Curing)

• Lift bulbs carefully

• Dry in a warm, airy place for 2–3 weeks

Storage

• Store dry, cool, and frost-free

• Use soft or damaged bulbs first

🌾 9. Improving Yields 

• Start early (especially from seed)

• Give plants space

• Keep beds weed-free

• Avoid rich, nitrogen-heavy soil

• Choose the right planting season

Slow, steady growth produces larger, better-storing bulbs.

⚡ 10. Quick Growing Tips

• Weeds are the biggest enemy of onions

• Mulch lightly once established

• Don’t overfeed

• Rotate crops regularly

Courgettes are one of the highest-yielding and most generous allotment crops — a single healthy plant can produce dozens of fruits over the summer. They’re ideal for beginners, grow quickly, and thrive in both the ground and large containers.

This guide covers everything you need to know: how to grow courgettes from seed or plug plants, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, containers vs ground growing, and proven ways to boost yields.

🌱 1. Ways to Grow Courgettes

🌰 Growing Courgettes from Seed (Most Common)

The cheapest and most reliable method.

Pros

• Easy to germinate

• Huge variety choice

• Strong plants

Cons

• Need protection from frost when young

🌱 Courgette Plug Plants

Young plants bought ready-grown.

Pros

• Faster start

• Good for late planting or short seasons

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited variety choice

👉 Both methods work well — healthy plants matter more than how they start.

🗓️ 2. When to Sow & Plant Courgettes

Courgettes are tender and hate frost.

From Seed

• Sow indoors: April

• Sow outdoors: Late May–June (after last frost)

Plug Plants

• Plant outdoors: Late May–June

Soil should be warm before planting. Cold soil causes slow growth and rot.

🌾 3. How to Grow Courgettes in the Ground

Spacing (Very Important)

Courgettes need space.

• Plant spacing: 75–90cm between plants

• Row spacing: 90cm

Crowded plants:

• produce fewer fruits

• suffer more disease

Planting Method

• Dig a generous hole

• Add compost or well-rotted manure

• Plant at same depth as pot

• Water well

Courgettes love rich, moisture-retentive soil.

🪴 4. Growing Courgettes in Containers

Courgettes grow very well in containers if size is sufficient.

Container Requirements

• Minimum size: 30–40 litres

• One plant per pot

• Use high-quality compost

Extra care needed

• Water daily in hot weather

• Feed regularly

Containers dry out faster — consistency is key.

💧 5. Watering Courgettes (Critical for Success)

Courgettes are thirsty plants.

Best Practice

• Water deeply at the base

• Keep soil evenly moist

• Mulch to reduce evaporation

Inconsistent watering leads to:

• poor fruit set

• bitter courgettes

• flower drop

Avoid watering leaves to reduce disease.

🌿 6. Feeding Courgettes

Courgettes are heavy feeders.

Feeding Schedule

• Add compost/manure at planting

• Start liquid feeding once flowers appear

• Feed weekly during heavy cropping

Best feeds:

• general-purpose liquid feed

• tomato feed once fruiting begins

🌼 7. Flowers, Pollination & Fruit Set

Courgette plants produce:

• Male flowers (long thin stems)

• Female flowers (small courgette behind flower)

Poor fruiting often comes from:

• lack of pollinators

• cold or wet weather

Tip:
Hand-pollinate by transferring pollen from male to female flower with a small brush.

🐛 8. Common Pests & Diseases

Pests

• Slugs & snails: attack young plants

• Aphids: cluster on soft growth

Control

• Protect young plants early

• Encourage predators

• Use barriers rather than sprays

Diseases

Powdery Mildew (Most Common)

Symptoms

• White powdery coating on leaves

Causes

• Dry roots

• Poor airflow

Prevention

• Consistent watering

• Good spacing

• Remove badly affected leaves

🧺 9. Harvesting Courgettes (For Maximum Yield)

Harvest Little & Often

• Pick courgettes at 10–20cm long

• Harvest every 2–3 days

Leaving fruits to grow large:

• reduces total yield

• stresses the plant

Use a sharp knife — don’t twist stems.

🌾 10. How to Improve Courgette Yields

What really works:

• generous spacing

• rich soil

• consistent watering

• regular feeding

• frequent harvesting

One neglected plant can stop producing quickly — attention pays off.

⚡ Quick Courgette Growing Tips

• One or two plants is enough for most households

• Mulch heavily once soil warms

• Remove damaged leaves to improve airflow

• Courgettes freeze well when sliced

Photo by Eugene Golovesov on Unsplash

Herbs are one of the most rewarding things to grow on an allotment. They’re productive, low-maintenance, great for beginners, and many will thrive even when vegetables struggle. Whether you grow them in beds, containers, or tucked between crops, herbs give reliable harvests from early spring to late autumn — and some year-round.

This guide explains which herbs to grow, where to grow them, how to care for them, and how to avoid common mistakes.

🌱 1. Why Grow Herbs on an Allotment?

Herbs are ideal because they:

• need little space

• tolerate irregular watering

• deter some pests

• can be harvested repeatedly

• are expensive to buy fresh

Many herbs also attract pollinators, supporting the wider allotment ecosystem.

🌿 2. Annual vs Perennial Herbs (This Matters)

Understanding this avoids frustration later.

🌼 Annual Herbs (One Season)

These grow, flower, and die in one year.

• Basil

• Coriander

• Dill

• Chervil

➡ Best sown little and often for continuous harvests.

🌳 Perennial Herbs (Come Back Every Year)

These live for several years.

• Rosemary

• Thyme

• Sage

• Mint

• Chives

• Oregano

➡ Give them permanent space — they don’t like being moved.

🗺️ 3. Where to Grow Herbs

In Beds

Best for:

• thyme

• sage

• oregano

• chives

Tips

• Choose free-draining soil

• Avoid rich, overfed beds (too much leaf, less flavour)

In Containers (Highly Recommended)

Perfect for:

• mint (essential — it spreads)

• basil

• parsley

• tender herbs

Benefits

• Easy watering control

• Portable in bad weather

• Prevents invasive spread

Mixed Into Vegetable Beds

Many herbs grow well alongside crops:

• chives near carrots

• basil near tomatoes

• thyme near brassicas

This saves space and encourages beneficial insects.

🌞 4. Light, Soil & Water Requirements

Sun

Most herbs need:

• 6–8 hours of sunlight per day

Exceptions:

• parsley

• mint
  (these tolerate partial shade)

Soil

Herbs prefer:

• free-draining soil

• moderate fertility

Too much nitrogen = lots of leaves, less flavour.

Watering

• Water regularly while establishing

• Once established, many herbs prefer drier soil

• Containers dry faster — check more often

✂️ 5. Harvesting Herbs Properly (For Bigger Yields)

Harvesting correctly encourages more growth, not less.

General rules

• Never remove more than ⅓ of the plant at once

• Cut just above a leaf joint

• Harvest little and often

Best time to harvest

• Morning, after dew dries

• Before flowering for best flavour

❄️ 6. Overwintering & Long-Term Care

Hardy perennial herbs

Rosemary, thyme, sage:

• Survive winter outdoors

• Benefit from light pruning after flowering

• Avoid waterlogged soil

Tender herbs

Basil, coriander:

• Killed by frost

• Grow annually or move to a greenhouse/windowsill

Mint (Special Case)

• Extremely hardy

• Spreads aggressively

• Always grow in containers

🐛 7. Common Herb Problems (and Simple Fixes)

• Yellow leaves → overwatering or poor drainage

• Weak flavour → soil too rich or shade

• Leggy growth → not harvested enough

• Aphids → squash, water spray, or leave (often self-resolve)

Herbs generally suffer fewer pests than vegetables.

🧠 Key Principles for Herb Growing

• Poorer soil = stronger flavour

• Containers solve most problems

• Harvesting improves growth

• Perennials need permanent space

Potatoes are one of the most rewarding and forgiving allotment crops. They’re ideal for beginners, produce heavy yields, help clear new ground, and store well. You can grow them from certified seed potatoes, shop-bought potatoes, or plug plants, in the ground or in containers.

This guide covers everything you need to know, from planting times to pest control and yield-boosting tips.

🌱 1. Types of Potatoes (What You Can Grow)

🥔 Seed Potatoes (Recommended)

Certified, disease-free potatoes sold specifically for planting.

Best choice because:

• lower disease risk

• predictable performance

• wide variety selection

🛒 Old / Shop-Bought Potatoes

Potatoes from the supermarket that have sprouted.

Pros

• cheap or free

Cons

• may carry disease

• sometimes treated to prevent sprouting

👉 Use only if already sprouting naturally and accept some risk.

🌱 Potato Plug Plants

Young potato plants grown by suppliers.

Pros

• faster start

• useful for late planting

Cons

• more expensive

• less variety choice

🗓️ 2. Potato Types & When to Plant

Potatoes are grouped by harvest time.

First Earlies

• Plant: March

• Harvest: June–July

• Examples: Rocket, Swift

Second Earlies

• Plant: March–April

• Harvest: July–August

Maincrop

• Plant: April

• Harvest: August–October

• Best for storage

👉 Plant when soil is workable and frost risk is low.

🌿 3. Chitting Potatoes (Optional but Helpful)

Chitting means allowing seed potatoes to sprout before planting.

How to chit:

• Place potatoes in trays, rose-end up

• Keep in a cool, light, frost-free place

• Wait for short, sturdy shoots

Chitting gives earlier crops but isn’t essential.

🌾 4. How to Grow Potatoes in the Ground

Spacing

• First/Second Earlies:
  30cm apart
  60cm between rows

• Maincrop:
  37cm apart
  75cm between rows

Planting Depth

• Dig trenches 10–15cm deep

• Place potatoes with shoots facing up

• Cover with soil

Earthing Up (Very Important)

As shoots grow:

• pull soil up around stems

• repeat as plants grow

Why it matters:

• protects from frost

• prevents green potatoes

• increases yield

🪴 5. Growing Potatoes in Containers

Perfect for:

• small plots

• patios

• poor or contaminated soil

Container Method

• Use large containers (30–50L)

• Add 10–15cm compost

• Plant 1–3 potatoes

• Cover as shoots grow

Tip:
More compost depth = better yield.

💧 6. Watering & Feeding Potatoes

Watering

• Water regularly once flowering starts

• Keep soil evenly moist

• Avoid waterlogging

Inconsistent watering causes:

• small tubers

• scab

• cracked potatoes

Feeding

• Potatoes are hungry plants

Best practice:

• Add compost or manure before planting

• Optional: balanced feed at flowering

Avoid excess nitrogen — it causes leafy growth with fewer tubers.

🐛 7. Pests & Diseases

Common Pests

• Slugs (damage tubers)

• Wireworm (holes in potatoes)

Prevention

• good crop rotation

• remove weeds

• avoid planting after grass

Potato Blight (Main Threat)

Symptoms

• brown patches on leaves

• rapid collapse in wet weather

Prevention

• resistant varieties

• good spacing

• water soil, not leaves

Once blight appears, remove plants immediately.

🧺 8. Harvesting & Storage

Harvesting

• Earlies: harvest when flowering finishes

• Maincrop: after foliage dies back

Storage

• Dry potatoes before storing

• Store in cool, dark, frost-free place

• Remove damaged tubers

🌾 9. Improving Potato Yields

• Choose the right variety

• Earth up generously

• Water consistently

• Improve soil organic matter

• Avoid overcrowding

Potatoes thrive in loose, fertile soil.

⚡ 10. Quick Potato Growing Tips

• Never eat green potatoes

• Rotate crops every 3–4 years

• Don’t compost blighted plants

• Use potatoes to clear new ground

Beetroot (often shortened to beets) is a reliable, versatile, and beginner-friendly crop. It grows quickly, takes up little space, and produces usable harvests even in less-than-perfect soil. You can grow beetroot from seed or plug plants, in the ground or containers, and harvest roots small or large depending on taste and use.

This guide covers how to grow different types of beetroot, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, containers vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Types of Beetroot You Can Grow

🔴 Round Beetroot (Most Common)

• Deep red roots

• Reliable and productive

• Good for boiling, roasting, pickling

⚪ White & Yellow Beetroot

• Milder, sweeter flavour

• Don’t bleed colour

• Slightly slower growing

🌀 Chioggia (Striped Beetroot)

• Pink and white rings inside

• Best harvested young

• Attractive but less good for long storage

🌿 Leaf Beet / Baby Beet

• Grown for both leaves and roots

• Harvest leaves early like spinach

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Beets

From Seed (Most Common)

Beetroot seeds are actually clusters, often producing multiple seedlings.

Pros

• Cheap and easy

• Best root shape and storage

• Wide variety choice

Cons

• Need thinning

Plug Plants

Young beetroot plants grown in modules.

Pros

• Faster start

• Less thinning required

• Useful for late sowings

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited varieties

👉 Both methods work well — consistent moisture matters more than starting method.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Beetroot

From Seed

• Outdoors: March–July

• Succession sow: every 3–4 weeks

Plug Plants

• Plant out: April–August

Beetroot grows best in cool to warm soil and tolerates light frost.

🌾 4. How to Grow Beetroot in the Ground

Soil Requirements

• Free-draining soil

• Stone-free for smooth roots

• Not freshly manured

Too much nitrogen causes leafy growth and poor roots.

Spacing

• Between plants: 10cm (thin seedlings to this)

• Between rows: 30cm

Crowded plants produce small, woody roots.

Sowing Depth

• Sow seeds 2–3cm deep

• Water gently after sowing

Thin seedlings early — don’t delay.

🪴 5. Growing Beetroot in Containers

Beetroot is excellent for container growing.

Container Guidelines

• Depth: minimum 20–25cm

• Spacing: one plant per 10cm

• Use multi-purpose or veg compost

Keep compost evenly moist — containers dry quickly.

💧 6. Watering Beetroot

Consistent watering is critical.

Best Practice

• Keep soil evenly moist

• Water during dry spells

• Avoid letting soil dry out then flood

Irregular watering causes:

• woody texture

• cracked roots

• poor flavour

🌿 7. Feeding Beetroot

Beetroot is a light feeder.

Feeding Rules

• Compost before sowing is usually enough

• Avoid high-nitrogen feeds

• Optional light feed if growth stalls

Healthy soil matters more than fertiliser.

🐛 8. Common Pests & Diseases

Leaf Miners (Most Common)

Symptoms

• White tunnels in leaves

Control

• Remove affected leaves

• Cover crops with mesh

• Grow succession crops

Slugs & Snails

• Attack seedlings

Control

• Protect young plants early

• Improve airflow and drainage

Bolting

• Triggered by stress or cold snaps

Prevention

• Sow at correct times

• Keep moisture consistent

🧺 9. Harvesting Beetroot

When to Harvest

• Harvest from golf-ball size onwards

• Best flavour when young

• Leave some to mature for storage

How to Harvest

• Loosen soil gently

• Twist leaves off (don’t cut)

Leaves are edible — use like spinach.

🌾 10. Improving Beetroot Yields

What really works:

• Regular thinning

• Consistent watering

• Succession sowing

• Harvesting young

• Weed-free beds

Beetroot rewards steady care, not heavy feeding.

⚡ Quick Beetroot Growing Tips

• Thin early and decisively

• Grow little and often

• Avoid fresh manure

• Leaves are edible and nutritious

Beans are among the most productive, reliable, and soil-improving crops you can grow on an allotment. They’re ideal for beginners, work well in both the ground and containers, and reward good watering and harvesting with weeks (sometimes months) of crops.

This guide covers all main types of beans, how to grow them from seed or plug plants, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, containers vs ground growing, and proven ways to boost yields.

🌱 1. Types of Beans You Can Grow

🌿 Broad Beans

• Cool-season crop

• Very hardy

• Grown for early harvests

🌱 Dwarf French Beans

• Compact, bushy plants

• Ideal for containers

• Heavy croppers in summer

🌿 Climbing French Beans

• Taller, higher yields than dwarf types

• Need supports

🌺 Runner Beans

• Tall, vigorous climbers

• Long harvesting season

• Excellent for vertical growing

(Dry beans like borlotti or haricot are grown similarly but left to mature fully.)

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Beans

From Seed (Most Common)

Beans germinate easily and grow quickly.

Pros

• Cheap and reliable

• Wide choice of varieties

• Strong root systems

Cons

• Vulnerable to slugs when young

Plug Plants

Young bean plants grown in modules.

Pros

• Faster start

• Less early pest damage

• Useful for late planting

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited availability

👉 Both methods work — protection in early stages matters most.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Beans

Broad Beans

• Sow outdoors: Oct–Nov (overwintering) or Feb–Mar

• Harvest: May–June

French Beans (Dwarf & Climbing)

• Sow indoors: April

• Sow outdoors: May–July (after last frost)

Runner Beans

• Sow indoors: April

• Plant outdoors: May–June

Beans hate frost — warm soil is essential for summer types.

🌾 4. How to Grow Beans in the Ground

Soil Requirements

• Free-draining soil

• Open, sunny site

• Compost added before planting

Beans prefer soil that is fertile but not heavily fed.

Spacing

Broad Beans

• 20–25cm apart

• 45cm between rows

Dwarf French Beans

• 10–15cm apart

• 45cm between rows

Climbing Beans (Runner & French)

• 20–30cm apart

• Plant around supports

Crowding reduces airflow and increases disease.

Supports (Climbing Beans)

• Canes in a wigwam or A-frame

• Strong netting or trellis

• Secure well — plants get heavy

🪴 5. Growing Beans in Containers

Beans grow very well in containers if depth and moisture are adequate.

Container Guidelines

• Minimum depth: 30cm

• Dwarf beans: ideal for pots

• Climbing beans: need large containers + supports

Water containers frequently — they dry quickly in summer.

💧 6. Watering Beans

Consistent watering is critical, especially during:

• flowering

• pod formation

Best Practice

• Water deeply at soil level

• Avoid wetting foliage

• Mulch to retain moisture

Poor watering causes:

• flowers dropping

• misshapen pods

• reduced yields

🌿 7. Feeding Beans

Beans are light feeders and improve soil by fixing nitrogen.

Feeding Rules

• Compost before planting is enough

• Avoid high-nitrogen feeds

• Optional liquid feed if plants look weak

Overfeeding causes leaf growth at the expense of pods.

🐛 8. Common Pests & Diseases

Blackfly (Aphids) – Broad Beans

Symptoms

• Black clusters on shoot tips

Control

• Pinch out tops once flowering starts

• Encourage predators

• Jet of water if needed

Slugs & Snails

• Attack seedlings

Control

• Protect early

• Use barriers and good airflow

Bean Rust

Symptoms

• Brown/orange spots on leaves

Prevention

• Good spacing

• Avoid wet foliage

• Remove affected leaves

🧺 9. Harvesting Beans 

Harvest Little & Often

• Pick pods while young and tender

• Harvest every 2–3 days

Leaving pods to mature:

• signals the plant to stop producing

Use scissors or pinch gently to avoid damage.

🌾 10. Improving Bean Yields

• Warm soil before planting

• Consistent watering

• Regular harvesting

• Strong supports for climbers

• Succession sowing every 3–4 weeks

Beans reward attention, not feeding.

⚡ Quick Bean Growing Tips

• One short row can supply a household

• Pinch broad bean tops to reduce blackfly

• Mulch during hot weather

• Freeze surplus pods quickly

Photo by Duy Le Duc on Unsplash

Tomatoes are one of the most popular and rewarding allotment crops, but they’re also one of the most misunderstood. With the right variety choice, spacing, watering, and feeding, tomatoes can produce huge harvests in the ground, containers, or under cover.

This guide covers all major tomato types, how to grow them from seed or plug plants, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, container vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Types of Tomatoes You Can Grow

Understanding tomato types is key to success.

🍒 Cherry Tomatoes

• Small, sweet fruits

• Very productive

• Good for beginners

• Examples: tumbling or cordon types

🍅 Salad Tomatoes

• Medium-sized fruits

• Balanced flavour

• Versatile kitchen use

🍖 Beefsteak Tomatoes

• Large, meaty fruits

• Fewer fruits per plant

• Need strong supports

🌿 Cordon (Indeterminate) Tomatoes

• Grow tall (1.8–2m+)

• Produce fruit along a single stem

• Need staking and side-shoot removal

🌱 Bush (Determinate) Tomatoes

• Compact plants

• No side-shoot removal

• Ideal for containers

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Tomatoes

From Seed

Best for variety choice and value.

Pros

• Huge range of varieties

• Cheapest option

• Strong root systems

Cons

• Need early sowing and warmth

Plug Plants

Young tomato plants bought ready-grown.

Pros

• Faster start

• Ideal for beginners or late starts

Cons

• Limited variety choice

• More expensive

👉 Healthy plants matter more than starting method.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Tomatoes

From Seed

• Sow indoors: Feb–March

• Pot on: March–April

Plug Plants

• Buy: April–May

Plant Outdoors

• After last frost: Late May–June

Tomatoes are frost-tender — never rush planting.

🌾 4. How to Grow Tomatoes in the Ground

Soil Requirements

• Deep, fertile soil

• High organic matter

• Sunny, sheltered position

Add compost or well-rotted manure before planting.

Spacing

Cordon tomatoes

• 45–60cm apart

Bush tomatoes

• 60cm apart

Crowding reduces airflow and increases disease risk.

Supports

• Canes or strings for cordons

• Sturdy stakes or cages for bush types

Install supports at planting time.

🪴 5. Growing Tomatoes in Containers

Tomatoes grow exceptionally well in pots.

Container Guidelines

• Minimum size: 30–40 litres per plant

• One plant per pot

• Free-draining compost

Bush and cherry varieties are best for containers.

💧 6. Watering Tomatoes

Best Practice

• Water deeply and regularly

• Keep moisture consistent

• Water soil, not leaves

Irregular watering causes:

• split fruit

• blossom end rot

• poor flavour

Mulch to maintain even moisture.

🌿 7. Feeding Tomatoes

Tomatoes are heavy feeders once fruiting starts.

Feeding Schedule

• Compost at planting

• Start feeding when first flowers open

• Feed weekly with high-potash (tomato) feed

Too much nitrogen = leafy plants, fewer fruits.

✂️ 8. Pruning & Training Tomatoes

Cordon Tomatoes

• Remove side shoots weekly

• Tie in main stem

• Stop plants after 5–7 trusses (outdoors)

Bush Tomatoes

• No pruning required

• Remove only damaged leaves

🐛 9. Common Pests & Diseases

Aphids

• Cluster on soft growth

• Control with water spray or predators

Tomato Blight (Major Issue Outdoors)

Symptoms

• Brown/black patches on leaves

• Rapid plant collapse

Prevention

• Good spacing

• Water soil only

• Choose blight-resistant varieties

Once blight appears, remove plants immediately.

Blossom End Rot

• Black sunken patches on fruit

• Caused by calcium uptake issues from irregular watering

🧺 10. Harvesting Tomatoes

• Harvest when fruits are fully coloured

• Pick regularly to encourage more fruit

• Ripen green tomatoes indoors at season’s end

🌾 11. Improving Tomato Yields 

Choose the right variety

• Maintain consistent watering

• Feed regularly once fruiting

• Good airflow

• Harvest often

Attention matters more than fertiliser quantity.

⚡ Quick Tomato Growing Tips

• One or two plants per person is often enough

• Mulch after planting

• Remove lower leaves once fruit sets

• Rotate crops yearly

Photo by Stefan Schwinghammer on Unsplash

Salad leaves are among the fastest, easiest, and most rewarding crops you can grow. They suit beginners, thrive in containers or the ground, and can be harvested repeatedly using cut-and-come-again methods. With succession sowing, you can pick fresh leaves from early spring through late autumn — and even overwinter some varieties.

This guide covers different salad leaf types, how to grow them from seed or plugs, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, containers vs ground growing, and proven ways to boost yields.

🌱 1. Types of Salad Leaves You Can Grow

🥬 Lettuce (Loose-leaf & Hearting)

• Fast growing

• Ideal for cut-and-come-again

• Includes loose-leaf, butterhead, romaine, and iceberg

🌿 Mixed Salad Leaves

• Mesclun mixes (lettuce, rocket, mizuna, mustard)

• Continuous harvests

• Excellent for small spaces

🌶️ Rocket (Arugula)

• Peppery flavour

• Very fast growing

• Can bolt in heat

🥗 Spinach & Leafy Spinach

• Cool-season crop

• Nutritious leaves

• Prefers spring and autumn

🌱 Asian Greens

• Mizuna, pak choi, mustard greens

• Quick, productive

• Best in cooler weather

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Salad Leaves

From Seed (Most Common)

Pros

• Cheapest option

• Huge variety choice

• Ideal for succession sowing

Cons

• Needs regular sowing and thinning

Plug Plants

Pros

• Faster results

• Less thinning

• Useful for gaps and late sowings

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited variety choice

👉 Both work well — consistent moisture is more important than how you start.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Salad Leaves

From Seed

• Outdoors: March–September

• Indoors / under cover: February–October

• Overwintering varieties: August–September

Plug Plants

• Plant out: April–September

Salad leaves prefer cool to mild conditions and struggle in extreme heat.

🌾 4. How to Grow Salad Leaves in the Ground

Soil Requirements

• Moisture-retentive but free-draining soil

• Light, fertile soil

• Not freshly manured

Salads grow best in rich but gentle soil.

Spacing

Loose-leaf & cut-and-come-again

• Sow thinly in rows or blocks

• Thin to 5–10cm

Hearting lettuces

• 25–30cm apart

Crowding causes:

• small leaves

• disease

• bolting

🪴 5. Growing Salad Leaves in Containers

Perfect for:

• patios and balconies

• small plots

• quick access picking

Container Guidelines

• Depth: 15–20cm minimum

• Multi-purpose or veg compost

• Sow little and often

Containers dry quickly — check moisture daily in summer.

💧 6. Watering Salad Leaves 

Salad leaves are shallow-rooted and dry out quickly.

Best Practice

• Water lightly but frequently

• Keep soil consistently moist

• Water in the morning

Dry stress causes:

• bitter leaves

• bolting

• poor regrowth

Mulch lightly to conserve moisture.

🌿 7. Feeding Salad Leaves

Salad leaves are light feeders.

Feeding Rules

• Compost before sowing is usually enough

• Optional light liquid feed after first cut

• Avoid high-nitrogen feeds

Too much feed = soft, disease-prone leaves.

🐛 8. Common Pests & Diseases

Slugs & Snails

• Major threat to seedlings

Control

• Protect young plants early

• Use barriers and good airflow

Aphids

• Cluster on soft growth

Control

• Remove by hand or water spray

• Encourage predators

Bolting (Not a Disease)

Causes

• Heat

• Drought

• Stress

Prevention

• Regular watering

• Shade in heat

• Harvest young

✂️ 9. Harvesting Salad Leaves (For Best Yields)

Cut-and-Come-Again

• Cut leaves 2–3cm above soil

• Harvest every 1–2 weeks

• Plants regrow several times

Hearting Lettuces

• Harvest whole plant when ready

Regular harvesting:

• improves flavour

• delays bolting

• increases total yield

🌾 10. Improving Salad Leaf Yields

What really works:

• Succession sowing every 2–3 weeks

• Shade in hot weather

• Consistent watering

• Harvesting little and often

Salads reward attention, not feeding.

⚡ Quick Salad Leaf Growing Tips

• Grow small amounts often

• Mix varieties to spread risk

• Use shade netting in heatwaves

• Sow bolt-resistant varieties in summer

Photo by Chandan Chaurasia on Unsplash

Carrots are a classic allotment crop — nutritious, versatile, and excellent value when home-grown. They can be a little fussy at the start, but once you understand soil preparation and moisture control, carrots are reliable in both beds and containers. You can grow them from seed (most common) or plug plants for easier establishment.

This guide covers how to grow carrots successfully, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, container vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Types of Carrots You Can Grow

🥕 Early / Nantes-type

• Short to medium roots

• Sweet and tender

• Good for heavier soils

🥕 Maincrop

• Longer roots

• Best for storage

• Need deeper, stone-free soil

🥕 Short & Stump Varieties

• Ideal for containers

• Reliable in poor soils

🌈 Coloured Carrots

• Purple, yellow, white

• Slightly slower growing

• Same growing method as orange carrots

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Carrots

From Seed (Most Common)

Pros

• Best root shape

• Cheapest option

• Wide variety choice

Cons

• Slow germination

• Needs careful thinning

Plug Plants

Young carrot plants grown in modules.

Pros

• Faster, more even establishment

• Less seed waste

• Useful where carrot fly is a problem

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited varieties

👉 Both methods work — soil preparation and watering matter most.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Carrots

From Seed

• Outdoors: March–July

• Early sowings: Under fleece or cloches (Feb–Mar)

• Succession sow: Every 3–4 weeks

Plug Plants

• Plant out: April–August

Carrots prefer cool to warm soil and tolerate light frost.

🌾 4. How to Grow Carrots in the Ground

Soil Requirements (Critical)

• Stone-free

• Loose and fine-textured

• Not freshly manured

Fresh manure causes forked or split roots.

Spacing

• Thin to: 5–7cm between plants

• Rows: 25–30cm apart

Thin early — crowded carrots stay small and crooked.

Sowing Depth

• Sow seeds 1cm deep

• Keep soil moist until germination (can take 2–3 weeks)

🪴 5. Growing Carrots in Containers

Carrots grow extremely well in containers.

Container Guidelines

• Depth:
  Short varieties: 20–25cm
  Long varieties: 30–40cm

• Free-draining compost

• Sow thinly and evenly

Containers are ideal for carrot fly avoidance.

💧 6. Watering Carrots

Even moisture is key.

Best Practice

• Water regularly during germination

• Keep soil evenly moist during root development

• Avoid letting soil dry out completely

Irregular watering causes:

• split roots

• poor flavour

• woody texture

🌿 7. Feeding Carrots

Carrots are light feeders.

Feeding Rules

• Compost added before sowing is enough

• Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilisers

• Optional light feed if growth is weak

Overfeeding = leafy tops, small roots.

🐛 8. Common Pests & Diseases

Carrot Fly (Main Problem)

Symptoms

• Red/purple leaves

• Tunnels in roots

Prevention

• Grow under fine mesh

• Avoid thinning during the day

• Grow in containers

• Sow resistant varieties

Slugs

• Damage young seedlings

Control

• Good drainage

• Protect seedlings early

Forked Roots

• Caused by stones, manure, or compacted soil

• Improve soil preparation rather than feeding

🧺 9. Harvesting Carrots

When to Harvest

• Harvest young for sweetness

• Maincrop carrots lifted from late summer to autumn

How to Harvest

• Loosen soil gently with a fork

• Pull carefully to avoid snapping

Carrots taste best fresh from the ground.

🌾 10. Improving Carrot Yields

• Prepare soil thoroughly

• Sow thinly to reduce thinning

• Keep moisture consistent

• Use containers or mesh to avoid carrot fly

• Succession sow for steady harvests

Carrots reward patience, not feeding.

⚡ Quick Carrot Growing Tips

• Never use fresh manure

• Don’t rush thinning

• Grow short varieties in difficult soil

• Water during dry spells for sweetness

🧠 Key Carrot Principles

• Soil quality matters more than fertiliser

• Even moisture = sweet roots

• Thinning is essential

• Containers reduce pest pressure

Photo by Jonathan Kemper on Unsplash

Cucumbers are fast-growing, high-yielding plants that thrive in warm conditions. They’re perfect for allotments, greenhouses, polytunnels, and even large containers. With the right watering and feeding routine, a few plants can provide a steady harvest all summer.

This guide explains how to grow different types of cucumbers, from seed or plug plants, when and how to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, common pests and diseases, container vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Types of Cucumbers You Can Grow

🥒 Outdoor (Ridge) Cucumbers

• Shorter, ridged fruits

• Tougher skin

• Ideal for outdoor growing

• Good disease resistance

🥒 Indoor / Greenhouse Cucumbers

• Long, smooth fruits

• Thin skin, sweeter flavour

• Need shelter and warmth

🥒 Snack / Mini Cucumbers

• Small, prolific fruits

• Excellent for containers

• Harvest young and often

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Cucumbers

From Seed (Most Common)

Pros

• Cheap and reliable

• Wide choice of varieties

• Strong plants

Cons

• Need warmth to germinate

Plug Plants

Young cucumber plants supplied ready-grown.

Pros

• Faster start

• Ideal for late planting

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited variety choice

👉 Both methods work well — warmth, water, and feeding matter more than starting method.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Cucumbers

From Seed

• Sow indoors: April

• Sow outdoors: Late May–June (after last frost)

Plug Plants

• Plant out: Late May–June

Cucumbers are frost-tender and need warm soil.

🌾 4. How to Grow Cucumbers in the Ground

Soil Requirements

• Rich, moisture-retentive soil

• Free-draining

• Sheltered, sunny position

Add plenty of compost or well-rotted manure before planting.

Spacing

• Outdoor ridge cucumbers:
  60–90cm between plants

• Climbing cucumbers:
  45–60cm apart

Good spacing improves airflow and reduces disease.

Supports

Climbing cucumbers benefit from:

• trellis

• netting

• strong canes

Supports keep fruit clean and improve yields.

🪴 5. Growing Cucumbers in Containers

Cucumbers grow very well in containers with enough space.

Container Guidelines

• Minimum size: 30–40 litres per plant

• One plant per pot

• Use rich, free-draining compost

Container plants need very regular watering and feeding.

💧 6. Watering Cucumbers (Critical)

Cucumbers are extremely thirsty plants.

Best Practice

• Water little and often

• Keep soil consistently moist

• Water at the base, not leaves

Irregular watering causes:

• bitter fruit

• curved cucumbers

• flower drop

Mulch heavily to retain moisture.

🌿 7. Feeding Cucumbers

Cucumbers are heavy feeders.

Feeding Schedule

• Compost/manure at planting

• Start feeding once flowers appear

• Feed weekly with tomato or general liquid feed

Lack of feeding = poor yields and pale leaves.

✂️ 8. Pruning & Training Cucumbers

Outdoor Cucumbers

• Pinch out growing tip after 5–7 leaves

• Encourages side shoots and fruiting

Indoor Cucumbers

• Remove side shoots up to a certain height

• Follow variety instructions

Training improves airflow and fruit quality.

🐛 9. Common Pests & Diseases

Aphids

• Cluster on young growth

Control

• Water spray

• Encourage ladybirds

Powdery Mildew (Most Common)

Symptoms

• White powdery coating on leaves

Causes

• Dry roots

• Poor airflow

Prevention

• Consistent watering

• Good spacing

• Remove badly affected leaves

Cucumber Mosaic Virus

• Mottled, distorted leaves

• Spread by aphids

Remove affected plants immediately.

🧺 10. Harvesting Cucumbers

• Harvest regularly while fruits are young

• Pick every 2–3 days in peak season

• Use a sharp knife or scissors

Leaving fruit too long reduces further production.

🌾 11. Improving Cucumber Yields

• Warm soil before planting

• Consistent watering

• Weekly feeding

• Regular harvesting

• Vertical growing where possible

Cucumbers reward attention and consistency.

⚡ Quick Cucumber Growing Tips

• Never let plants dry out

• Grow upwards to save space

• Mulch heavily in summer

• One or two plants often supply a household

Photo by Harshal S. Hirve on Unsplash

Leeks are a long-season, low-maintenance crop that earn their space on the allotment. They’re hardy, stand in the ground through winter, and provide fresh harvests when little else is available. While they take time to mature, leeks are forgiving and ideal for growers who prefer steady progress rather than constant attention.

This guide covers how to grow leeks from seed and plug plants, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, container vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Ways to Grow Leeks

🌰 Growing Leeks from Seed (Most Common)

The traditional and most economical method.

Pros

• Cheapest option

• Best variety choice

• Strong, adaptable plants

Cons

• Long growing season

• Need transplanting

🌱 Leek Plug Plants

Young leek plants supplied in modules.

Pros

• Faster start

• Less early care

• Ideal for beginners or late sowing

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited varieties

👉 Both methods work well — spacing, watering, and soil quality matter more than how you start.

🗓️ 2. When to Sow & Plant Leeks

From Seed

• Sow indoors: Jan–Feb

• Sow outdoors: Mar–Apr

• Transplant: May–July

Plug Plants

• Plant out: May–July

Leeks are hardy once established and tolerate cold well.

🌾 3. How to Grow Leeks in the Ground

Soil Requirements

• Moisture-retentive but free-draining soil

• High organic matter

• Open, sunny position

Leeks are heavy feeders and benefit from compost-rich soil.

Spacing

• Between plants: 15–20cm

• Between rows: 30cm

Wider spacing produces thicker leeks.

Planting Method (Traditional Leek Planting)

1. Make holes 15–20cm deep using a dibber

2. Drop one plant into each hole

3. Water well and allow soil to wash in naturally

Do not fill holes with soil — this helps blanch the stems.

🪴 4. Growing Leeks in Containers

Leeks grow well in containers if depth is sufficient.

Container Guidelines

• Depth: at least 30cm

• Spacing: 3–5 leeks per large pot

• Rich, moisture-retentive compost

Container leeks need more frequent watering and feeding.

💧 5. Watering Leeks

Leeks have shallow roots and need consistent moisture.

Best Practice

• Water regularly during dry spells

• Focus on soil, not leaves

• Mulch to retain moisture

Drought stress causes:

• thin stems

• slow growth

🌿 6. Feeding Leeks

Leeks are heavy feeders compared to onions.

Feeding Schedule

• Add compost or manure before planting

• Apply liquid feed every 2–3 weeks in summer

• Avoid excess nitrogen late in the season

Healthy soil = thick, tender leeks.

🐛 7. Common Pests & Diseases

Leek Moth

Symptoms

• Holes and damage inside leaves

Control

• Fine mesh netting

• Remove affected leaves

Allium Leaf Miner

• Lines or tunnels in leaves

• Increasingly common

Prevention

• Mesh covers

• Avoid planting during peak activity

Leek Rust

Symptoms

• Orange pustules on leaves

Control

• Good spacing

• Remove badly affected leaves

• Improve airflow

🧺 8. Harvesting Leeks

When to Harvest

• Harvest from late summer through winter

• Leeks can stay in the ground until needed

How to Harvest

• Loosen soil gently

• Lift carefully to avoid snapping

Leeks improve in flavour after light frost.

🌾 9. Improving Leek Yields

• Start early from seed

• Feed regularly in summer

• Space plants generously

• Keep soil moist

• Weed thoroughly

Leeks reward time and consistency, not rushing.

⚡ Quick Leek Growing Tips

• Don’t overfill planting holes

• Wider spacing = thicker leeks

• Mulch in summer to reduce watering

• Harvest as needed — no rush

🧠 Key Leek Principles

• Long season, steady care

• Moist soil = tender stems

• Feeding improves size

• Spacing affects thickness

Kale is one of the hardiest and most reliable leafy crops you can grow. It thrives in cooler weather, stands through winter, and provides harvests when many other vegetables are finished. Kale is ideal for beginners and experienced growers alike, performing well in the ground or large containers.

This guide explains how to grow different types of kale, from seed or plug plants, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, common pests and diseases, container vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Types of Kale You Can Grow

🥬 Curly Kale

• Tough, crinkled leaves

• Very cold-hardy

• Excellent winter crop

🌿 Cavolo Nero (Black Kale / Tuscan Kale)

• Dark, strap-like leaves

• Sweeter flavour after frost

• Popular for cooking

🌱 Red & Russian Kale

• Tender, flatter leaves

• Mild flavour

• Fast-growing and attractive

🌿 Baby Leaf Kale

• Harvested young

• Ideal for salads and quick crops

• Grows well in containers

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Kale

From Seed (Most Common)

Pros

• Cheapest option

• Wide variety choice

• Strong, adaptable plants

Cons

• Needs protection from pests when young

Plug Plants

Young kale plants grown in modules.

Pros

• Faster establishment

• Less seedling loss

• Good for late planting

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited varieties

👉 Both methods work well — spacing, pest protection, and steady watering matter most.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Kale

From Seed

• Sow indoors: March–April

• Sow outdoors: April–June

Plug Plants

• Plant out: May–July

Kale grows best in cool to mild conditions and tolerates frost extremely well.

🌾 4. How to Grow Kale in the Ground

Soil Requirements

• Moisture-retentive but free-draining soil

• Plenty of organic matter

• Sunny or lightly shaded site

Kale prefers firm soil — avoid freshly dug, loose beds.

Spacing

• Between plants: 45–60cm

• Between rows: 60cm

Crowding causes:

• smaller leaves

• more disease

• increased pest damage

Planting Method

• Plant seedlings firmly

• Water well after planting

• Add a light mulch once established

Firm planting helps prevent wind rock.

🪴 5. Growing Kale in Containers

Kale grows very well in containers with enough depth.

Container Guidelines

• Minimum depth: 30cm

• Spacing: 1 plant per 20–25cm

• Use rich, moisture-retentive compost

Containers dry faster — water regularly.

💧 6. Watering Kale

Kale needs consistent moisture, especially when young.

Best Practice

• Water during dry spells

• Keep soil evenly moist

• Mulch to reduce evaporation

Drought stress causes:

• tough leaves

• slow growth

• bitter flavour

🌿 7. Feeding Kale

Kale is a moderate to heavy feeder.

Feeding Schedule

• Add compost before planting

• Light liquid feed every 2–3 weeks in summer

• Avoid excessive nitrogen late in the season

Healthy soil = tender, productive plants.

🐛 8. Common Pests & Diseases

Caterpillars (Major Issue)

Symptoms

• Holes in leaves

• Visible caterpillars

Control

• Fine mesh netting

• Hand removal

• Encourage birds

Aphids

• Clusters on soft growth

Control

• Water spray

• Encourage predators

Clubroot

• Swollen roots

• Poor growth

Prevention

• Crop rotation

• Improve drainage

• Lime acidic soils

Slugs

• Damage young plants

Control

• Protect seedlings early

• Improve airflow

🧺 9. Harvesting Kale (For Continuous Crops)

How to Harvest

• Pick lower leaves first

• Leave central growing point intact

• Harvest regularly

This encourages plants to keep producing for months.

Best Time to Harvest

• After frost for sweeter flavour

• Kale improves in taste during colder weather

🌾 10. Improving Kale Yields

• Space plants generously

• Use mesh protection early

• Water consistently

• Harvest regularly

• Feed lightly during growth

Kale rewards steady care, not intensive feeding.

⚡ Quick Kale Growing Tips

• Frost improves flavour

• Firm soil prevents wind damage

• Mesh is the best pest control

• Kale stands through winter without protection

🧠 Key Kale Principles

• Cool weather improves flavour

• Spacing and firmness matter

• Mesh prevents most pest problems

• Harvesting encourages regrowth

Photo by Vital Sinkevich on Unsplash

Parsnips are a slow-growing but very rewarding root crop, prized for their sweet flavour after frost. They need patience and good soil preparation, but once established they’re low maintenance and ideal for overwinter harvests. Parsnips are traditionally grown from seed, though plug plants can help with tricky germination.

This guide explains how to grow parsnips successfully, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, container vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Types of Parsnips You Can Grow

🥕 Long-rooted Parsnips

• Traditional shape

• Best flavour and storage

• Need deep, stone-free soil

🥕 Short & Stump Varieties

• More reliable in heavier soil

• Ideal for containers and raised beds

🥕 Exhibition / Giant Types

• Grown for size rather than flavour

• Require excellent soil and space

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Parsnips

From Seed (Most Common)

Pros

• Best root shape

• Cheapest option

• Widely available varieties

Cons

• Slow and unreliable germination

• Fresh seed essential

Plug Plants

Young parsnips grown in deep modules.

Pros

• More reliable establishment

• Useful where germination fails

• Faster early growth

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited availability

👉 Fresh seed, soil preparation, and moisture control matter more than starting method.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Parsnips

From Seed

• Outdoors: February–April

• Best time: March (soil warming but still moist)

Plug Plants

• Plant out: March–May

Parsnips need a long growing season — sow as early as conditions allow.

🌾 4. How to Grow Parsnips in the Ground

Soil Requirements (Critical)

• Deep, stone-free soil

• Light and free-draining

• Not freshly manured

Fresh manure causes forked and misshapen roots.

Spacing

• Thin to: 15–20cm between plants

• Rows: 30–45cm apart

Crowded parsnips stay thin and short.

Sowing Depth

• Sow seeds 1–2cm deep

• Water gently and keep moist

• Germination can take 3–4 weeks

Many growers mark rows with fast-germinating radish seeds.

🪴 5. Growing Parsnips in Containers

Parsnips grow well in deep containers.

Container Guidelines

• Depth: 30–45cm minimum

• Use stone-free compost

• Choose short varieties

Containers are excellent for poor soil or pest control.

💧 6. Watering Parsnips

Parsnips need even moisture, especially early on.

Best Practice

• Keep seedbed moist until germination

• Water during long dry spells

• Avoid waterlogging

Irregular watering causes:

• woody roots

• slow growth

🌿 7. Feeding Parsnips

Parsnips are light feeders.

Feeding Rules

• Compost before sowing is enough

• Avoid nitrogen-rich fertilisers

• Optional light feed if growth stalls

Too much feed = leafy tops, poor roots.

🐛 8. Common Pests & Diseases

Carrot Fly

Symptoms

• Red or purple leaves

• Rusty tunnels in roots

Prevention

• Fine mesh barriers

• Avoid thinning during the day

• Grow in containers

Parsnip Canker

Symptoms

• Brown sunken patches on roots

Prevention

• Avoid waterlogging

• Practice crop rotation

• Harvest carefully

Slugs

• Damage young seedlings

Protect seedlings early.

🧺 9. Harvesting Parsnips

When to Harvest

• From late autumn onwards

• Best flavour after frost

Parsnips can remain in the ground throughout winter.

How to Harvest

• Loosen soil gently

• Lift carefully to avoid snapping

Harvest as needed — roots store best in the ground.

🌾 10. Improving Parsnip Yields

• Use fresh seed every year

• Prepare soil thoroughly

• Sow early

• Keep moisture consistent

• Thin properly

Parsnips reward patience, not feeding.

⚡ Quick Parsnip Growing Tips

• Never use fresh manure

• Don’t rush germination — be patient

• Frost improves flavour

• Use deep containers if soil is poor

🧠 Key Parsnip Principles

• Soil depth matters most

• Fresh seed is essential

• Even moisture improves quality

• Frost improves flavour

Peppers — including sweet/bell peppers and chillies — thrive in warm, sunny conditions and reward steady care with colourful, flavour-packed harvests. They’re ideal for containers, greenhouses, polytunnels, and sheltered outdoor spots. With consistent warmth, watering, and feeding, a few plants can crop for months.

This guide covers how to grow peppers from seed or plug plants, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, container vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Types of Peppers You Can Grow

🫑 Sweet / Bell Peppers

• Thick-walled, mild flavour

• Green fruits ripen to red/yellow/orange

• Best under cover in cooler climates

🌶️ Chillies

• Range from mild to very hot

• Generally more compact than sweet peppers

• Often easier to grow and very productive

(Growing methods are the same; heat and feeding needs are similar.)

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Peppers

From Seed (Most Common)

Pros

• Huge variety choice

• Cheapest option

• Strong plants when started early

Cons

• Need warmth and patience early on

Plug Plants

Young pepper plants supplied ready-grown.

Pros

• Faster start

• Ideal for beginners or late planting

Cons

• Limited varieties

• More expensive

👉 Success depends more on warmth, light, and consistency than the starting method.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Peppers

From Seed

• Sow indoors (warm): Jan–Feb (best), up to March

• Pot on: Feb–April

Plug Plants

• Buy: April–May

Planting Out

• Greenhouse/polytunnel: April–May

• Outdoors (sheltered): Late May–June (after last frost)

Peppers are frost-tender and sulk in cold soil.

🌾 4. How to Grow Peppers in the Ground

Site & Soil

• Warm, sunny, sheltered position

• Fertile, free-draining soil

• Plenty of compost before planting

Spacing

• Sweet peppers: 40–50cm apart

• Chillies: 35–45cm apart

Good spacing improves airflow and fruit set.

Supports

• Use short canes or stakes once plants carry fruit

• Prevents snapping under weight

🪴 5. Growing Peppers in Containers

Excellent for peppers and chillies.

Container Guidelines

• Minimum size: 10–15L (chillies), 15–20L (sweet peppers)

• One plant per pot

• Free-draining compost

Containers warm up faster — great for early growth — but dry out quicker.

💧 6. Watering Peppers

Peppers like even moisture, not extremes.

Best Practice

• Water regularly at the base

• Let the surface dry slightly between waterings

• Mulch to stabilise moisture

Irregular watering causes:

• flower drop

• small or misshapen fruits

• blossom end rot (rare but possible)

🌿 7. Feeding Peppers

Peppers are moderate to heavy feeders once fruiting.

Feeding Schedule

• Compost at planting

• Start feeding when flowers open

• Feed weekly with tomato or balanced liquid feed

Too much nitrogen = leafy plants, fewer fruits.

✂️ 8. Pruning & Training 

• Pinch out the growing tip at ~20–30cm to encourage branching

• Remove crowded inner shoots for airflow

• Support branches carrying heavy fruit

Chillies often benefit most from light pinching.

🐛 9. Common Pests & Diseases

Aphids

• Cluster on soft growth
  Control: water spray, encourage predators

Red Spider Mite (Under Cover)

• Speckled leaves, fine webbing
  Prevention: increase humidity, mist paths, good airflow

Blossom End Rot

• Dark patch on fruit base
  Cause: irregular watering affecting calcium uptake
  Fix: consistent watering

🧺 10. Harvesting Peppers

• Pick green for earlier harvests

• Leave longer to ripen for sweetness and colour

• Harvest regularly to encourage more fruit

Use scissors or a sharp knife to avoid plant damage.

🌾 11. Improving Pepper Yields

• Start early with warmth

• Keep temperatures steady

• Water and feed consistently

• Harvest often

• Grow under cover where possible

Peppers reward steady, stress-free growing.

⚡ Quick Pepper Growing Tips

• Warmth matters more than feeding

• Fewer plants, better care = higher yields

• Coloured peppers need time — be patient

• Chillies freeze and dry well

🧠 Key Pepper Principles

• Warmth is essential

• Consistency beats intensity

• Feed once flowering starts

• Containers give excellent control

Photo by Gabor Barbely on Unsplash

Broccoli is a nutritious, productive brassica that rewards steady care with generous harvests. While it has a reputation for being tricky, most problems come down to spacing, feeding, and pest protection. Get those right and broccoli becomes a dependable crop in both ground beds and large containers.

This guide covers how to grow broccoli from seed or plug plants, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, container vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Types of Broccoli You Can Grow

🥦 Calabrese (Green Broccoli)

• Large central head

• Produces side shoots after cutting

• Fast growing (summer–autumn harvest)

🥦 Purple Sprouting Broccoli

• Multiple small shoots

• Overwinters and crops in late winter–spring

• Very hardy, slower growing

(Growing methods are similar, but timings differ.)

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Broccoli

From Seed

Pros

• Cheapest option

• Wide variety choice

• Strong root systems

Cons

• Needs protection when young

Plug Plants

Young broccoli plants grown in modules.

Pros

• Faster establishment

• Less early pest damage

• Ideal for beginners

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited varieties

👉 Both methods work well — soil fertility and pest protection matter more than starting method.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Broccoli

Calabrese

• Sow indoors: Feb–April

• Sow outdoors: April–May

• Plant out: April–June

• Harvest: June–October

Purple Sprouting Broccoli

• Sow: March–April

• Plant out: May–June

• Harvest: Feb–April (following year)

Broccoli prefers cool, steady growing conditions.

🌾 4. How to Grow Broccoli in the Ground

Soil & Position

• Firm, fertile soil

• Sunny, open site

• Plenty of organic matter added before planting

Brassicas grow best in soil that has been manured the previous season, not freshly fed.

Spacing (Very Important)

• Between plants: 45–60cm

• Between rows: 60cm

Crowded broccoli produces:

• small heads

• weak plants

• more pest problems

Planting Tips

• Plant firmly (brassicas like firm soil)

• Water in well

• Add a collar around stems to deter pests

🪴 5. Growing Broccoli in Containers

Broccoli can be grown in containers with enough space.

Container Guidelines

• Minimum size: 30–40 litres per plant

• One plant per pot

• Rich, moisture-retentive compost

Containers need more frequent watering and feeding.

💧 6. Watering Broccoli

Consistent moisture is key.

Best Practice

• Water deeply and regularly

• Avoid letting soil dry out

• Mulch to retain moisture

Dry stress causes:

• buttoning (tiny heads)

• bitter flavour

• premature bolting

🌿 7. Feeding Broccoli

Broccoli is a heavy feeder.

Feeding Schedule

• Compost or manure before planting

• Start liquid feeding once established

• Feed every 2–3 weeks with a balanced feed

Lack of nutrients = small heads and yellowing leaves.

🐛 8. Common Pests & Diseases

Cabbage White Caterpillars

Symptoms

• Holes in leaves

• Green caterpillars present

Control

• Fine mesh netting

• Hand removal

• Encourage birds

Aphids

• Cluster on new growth

• Cause distortion

Wash off with water or remove by hand.

Clubroot (Soil Disease)

Symptoms

• Wilting plants

• Swollen, distorted roots

Prevention only

• Long crop rotation

• Improve drainage

• Lime acidic soils

✂️ 9. Harvesting Broccoli

Calabrese

• Cut main head while tight

• Side shoots will follow

Purple Sprouting

• Harvest spears regularly once cropping begins

Harvesting promptly:

• improves quality

• extends cropping period

🌾 10. Improving Broccoli Yields

• Space plants generously

• Keep soil consistently moist

• Feed regularly

• Protect from pests early

• Harvest on time

Broccoli rewards steady, stress-free growing.

⚡ Quick Broccoli Growing Tips

• Firm soil = stronger plants

• Net plants from day one

• Don’t rush planting in hot weather

• Side shoots extend harvests

🧠 Key Broccoli Principles

• Space and firmness matter

• Moisture prevents buttoning

• Feeding improves head size

• Netting prevents most pest issues

Photo by KC Shum on Unsplash

Spinach is a fast-growing, nutrient-rich leafy green that thrives in cool conditions. It’s ideal for beginners, works brilliantly in beds and containers, and can be harvested repeatedly using cut-and-come-again methods. With the right timing and moisture control, you can harvest spinach from early spring through late autumn — and overwinter hardy varieties for spring crops.

This guide covers how to grow spinach from seed or plug plants, when to plant, spacing, watering and feeding, pests and diseases, container vs ground growing, and proven ways to improve yields.

🌱 1. Types of Spinach You Can Grow

🥬 True Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)

• Smooth or savoy (crinkled) leaves

• Best in cool weather

• Can bolt in heat

🌿 Perpetual / Leaf Beet (Spinach Beet)

• Technically a beet, grown like spinach

• More heat tolerant

• Harvest leaves for months

(Growing methods are similar, but true spinach prefers cooler conditions.)

🌰 2. Ways to Grow Spinach

From Seed (Most Common)

Pros

• Cheapest option

• Easy and quick to germinate

• Ideal for succession sowing

Cons

• Can bolt if stressed

Plug Plants

Young spinach plants grown in modules.

Pros

• Faster establishment

• Less thinning required

• Useful for late or tricky sowings

Cons

• More expensive

• Limited variety choice

👉 Both methods work well — timing and consistent moisture matter most.

🗓️ 3. When to Sow & Plant Spinach

From Seed

• Spring sowing: March–May

• Autumn sowing: August–September (overwintering)

• Under cover: February–October (variety dependent)

Plug Plants

• Plant out: April–May and September

Spinach prefers cool, steady temperatures.

🌾 4. How to Grow Spinach in the Ground

Soil & Position

• Moisture-retentive but free-draining soil

• Fertile, light soil

• Partial shade in summer is ideal

Avoid freshly manured soil — it encourages leaf at the expense of flavour.

Spacing

• Between plants: 10–15cm

• Between rows: 30cm

Crowding leads to:

• small leaves

• disease

• bolting

Sowing Depth

• Sow seeds 2cm deep

• Keep soil moist until germination (7–14 days)

🪴 5. Growing Spinach in Containers

Spinach is excellent for container growing.

Container Guidelines

• Depth: 15–20cm minimum

• Use multi-purpose or veg compost

• Sow thinly and evenly

Containers dry out quickly — check daily in warm weather.

💧 6. Watering Spinach (Critical)

Spinach is shallow-rooted and hates drying out.

Best Practice

• Water little and often

• Keep soil consistently moist

• Water in the morning

Dry stress causes:

• bitter leaves

• bolting

• poor regrowth

Mulch lightly to retain moisture.

🌿 7. Feeding Spinach

Spinach is a light to moderate feeder.

Feeding Rules

• Compost before sowing is usually enough

• Optional light liquid feed after first cut

• Avoid overfeeding

Too much nitrogen = soft, short-lived leaves.

🐛 8. Common Pests & Diseases

Slugs & Snails

• Major threat to seedlings

Control

• Protect young plants early

• Improve airflow and drainage

Leaf Miners

Symptoms

• White tunnels in leaves

Control

• Remove affected leaves

• Use fine mesh covers

Downy Mildew

Symptoms

• Yellow patches, grey mould underside

Prevention

• Good spacing

• Avoid overhead watering

• Remove affected leaves

✂️ 9. Harvesting Spinach (For Best Yields)

Cut-and-Come-Again

• Harvest outer leaves first

• Leave the centre growing point

• Pick every 7–10 days

Regular harvesting:

• improves flavour

• delays bolting

• increases total yield

🌾 10. Improving Spinach Yields

• Sow little and often

• Grow in partial shade during summer

• Keep soil moist

• Harvest regularly

• Choose bolt-resistant varieties

Spinach rewards steady, gentle care.

⚡ Quick Spinach Growing Tips

• Autumn sowings overwinter well

• Shade prevents summer bolting

• Leaves are best young and tender

• Grow perpetual spinach for heat tolerance

🧠 Key Spinach Principles

• Cool conditions are essential

• Moist soil = tender leaves

• Regular harvesting boosts yield

• Succession sowing prevents gaps

Photo by Elianna Friedman on Unsplash